Wednesday, 1 April 2020

Queen Victoria: Death and her Wild Abodes on the Balmoral Estates


Queen Victoria’s reign and marriage

Victoria Alexandrina, born 24 May 1819, was the only child of Edward, Duke of Kent (1867 – 1920).  He was the fourth son of George III (1738 – 1820) and must have had little expectation that his only child would succeed to the throne of Great Britain and Ireland.  But, because of the laws of succession of the nation and the vagaries of Royal procreation, on the death of her uncle, William IV, on 20 June 1837, Victoria became the next monarch at the tender age of 18.  Her coronation was held just over a year later.  Victoria became close to her first cousin, Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha and proposed marriage to him, which he accepted.  They were joined on 10 February 1840.  It was a marriage founded on a deep and enduring affection between the two partners.
Queen Victoria and Prince Albert 1854

In the period 1840 – 1857, Victoria bore nine children, five girls and four boys, the youngest child being daughter Beatrice.  But Queen Victoria proved to be a carrier for X-linked haemophilia, which is caused by a recessive allele (variant of a gene).  This meant that each of her sons had a 50% chance of suffering from this debilitating error in the blood clotting mechanism.  Also, her daughters had a 50% chance of being carriers for the defective gene, like their mother.  In fact, only one son, Leopold (1853 – 1884), suffered from haemophilia but two daughters, Alice (1843 – 1878) and Beatrice (1857 – 1944), were carriers of the condition, as demonstrated by their subsequent reproductive careers.
Prince Albert, the Royal Consort, died young at the age of 42, on 14 December 1861, allegedly of typhoid fever, though that diagnosis has been challenged, since he had suffered some signs of illness for the previous two years.  Victoria’s life was desolated by the loss of her soul mate.  She mourned his passing throughout much of her widowhood, which lasted for 39 years, until her own death on 22 January 1901.
Queen Victoria


Queen Victoria’s journals 
  
Queen Victoria wrote a journal, usually daily from 1832, when she was 14 years old.  In all, 122 volumes were produced, estimated to contain 60,000,000 words.  Princess Beatrice (1857 – 1944), the Queen’s youngest daughter, companion and close confidant was widowed in 1896.  She was appointed as her mother’s literary executor, with instructions to edit the journals and to remove anything that might be embarrassing to the royal family.  This task took her 30 years and the result was 111 hand-written notebooks containing perhaps only 1/3 of the material in Victoria’s original journals.  The primary texts were subsequently destroyed.  It is only possible to compare the original, or a near-original, version with Beatrice’s expurgated offering for a few days over many decades.  With reference to Queen Victoria’s life in Scotland, the main sources of pre-Beatrice material are two compilations cobbled together by the Queen entitled, “Leaves from the Journal of our Life in the Highlands from 1848 to 1861”, published in 1868 and “More Leaves from the Journal of a life in the Highlands from 1862 – 1882”, published in 1884, dealing respectively with the 14 years before and the 20 years after Albert’s death.  These two volumes will be referred to here as “Leaves” and “More Leaves”.  The Princess Beatrice version of the diaries remains the only comprehensive source of information on Her Majesty’s thoughts and actions throughout her reign.  It is a reasonable assumption that, while Beatrice redacted much material from the originals, she did not invent topics or timings for inclusion.  There are still significant facts, hiding in plain sight, waiting to be mined from the Beatrice version of the Journals, as will be demonstrated. The, otherwise excellent, online version of Queen Victoria’s Journals contains some incorrect attributions for sleeping locations during the Balmoral sojourns, for which the user should be alert.  On a positive note, Princess Beatrice’s handwriting is easily legible, while her mother’s script is difficult to transcribe.
Princess Beatrice
 

Acquisition of the Balmoral estates

Victoria and Albert first visited Scotland in 1842, then returned in 1844 and 1847.  By that latest year the Royal couple had become impressed by the beauty of the Highlands and by Highland culture - bagpipes, tartan, kilts, dancing and athletic sports - then undergoing a revival as cultural symbols of the whole of Scotland, after the suppression of the Highlands which followed the 1745 Jacobite rebellion.

In the early part of the 1840s, the royal couple was also exercised by security considerations.  Several attempts had been made on Queen Victoria’s life and discontent, even rebellion, simmered in Ireland, where the Fenian movement was agitating for Irish independence and avowedly prepared to use violence to achieve that end.  Between 1841 and 1851 it is estimated that the population of Ireland fell by two million, about half, the very young and the old, due to death from starvation caused by the Great Famine, and partly due to emigration. The Fenians were supported by Irish emigrants, especially those who went to the USA.  The Queen and her consort sought country properties which were geographically isolated, where they could enjoy family life relatively free from worries about their personal safety.  They leased the Osborne estate on the Isle of Wight in 1844 and bought it outright a year later.  The Highlands of Scotland seemed to offer an even greater degree of security to the Royal couple.

The Eastern Highlands, principally in Aberdeenshire, proved to be more attractive than the Western Highlands, due to the lower level of precipitation and, in late 1847, an opportunity arose to acquire the Balmoral estate and castle on Deeside, due to the sudden death of the lessee, Sir Robert Gordon, leaving the balance of a 40-year lease from the Mar estate available for transfer.  The Queen and her husband, after some investigation, decided to take assignment of the 20-year balance of the Balmoral lease, though they had never visited Aberdeenshire.  They first entered on the property in September 1848.
Old Balmoral Castle

Victoria and Albert were immediately impressed, not only by the physical environment of the estate but also by the Highlanders who worked there and the local community from which they came.  The royal couple threw themselves into the exploration of their new domain, with the support of their staff, many of whom had worked for Sir Robert Gordon.  They joined in with local activities, including divine worship at nearby Crathie church and attendance at the Braemar Gathering, an annual celebration of Highland culture held in late summer/ early autumn.

The couple also sought to increase their landholdings on Deeside.  Prince Albert approached the Gordon family in late 1848, seeking to buy the freehold of the adjacent estate of Abergeldie, which bordered Balmoral on the east side.  The Gordons declined this request but did offer a 40-year lease to the property, which was accepted.  Another estate adjacent to Abergeldie, Birkhall (6,500 acres), also excited royal attention.  It was offered for sale in November 1848 and bought on behalf of Prince Albert by Dr Andrew Robertson, a local general practitioner, who had been appointed as the Royal Commissioner on Deeside.  The price was £14,000 and, after purchase, the Birkhall estate’s ownership was transferred to Prince Albert Edward, the eldest son and heir apparent.  The freehold of the Balmoral estate of 17,400 acres, was finally acquired for £31,500 in 1852, after the Queen received a windfall legacy of £500,000 in the will of John Camden Neild, a London barrister with miserly tendencies, at least towards his own family.  The money was also used to fund a string of improvements to the royal Deeside properties, the most significant of which was the construction of a new castle at Balmoral.  It was completed in 1856.  This program of improvements was ongoing for many years.
New Balmoral Castle

About five miles to the west of Balmoral Castle was Invercauld House, the home of the Farquharson family.  Their estate bordered the Balmoral land and one of the major Farquharson holdings south of the river Dee was the Ballochbuie forest, a place of great natural beauty which contained many mature Scots pines.  Queen Victoria, a regular visitor to and admirer of the Ballochbuie, became concerned at the plans of the Farquharsons to fell many of these trees.  In 1878, in order to save the forest from being hollowed out, Her Majesty bought the property and added it to the Balmoral land holdings.


An annual pattern of visits to Balmoral is established

Victoria and Albert stayed at Balmoral for 20 days on their first visit in September 1848 and late summer/early autumn subsequently became the routine time for a royal vacation at their Highland property.  In the following 13 years, up to the death of Prince Albert in December 1861, the couple spent an average of 41 days (range 27 – 52 days) on their autumnal Balmoral break.   This was the hunting season and Albert, right from the start, threw himself into the sport, especially the stalking of red deer stags.  Initially, his enthusiasm outstripped his skill with a rifle, but that changed with time and Queen Victoria recorded multiple occasions in her Journals on which he made kills.

The annual decampment to Balmoral was a complex affair involving the whole Court - horses, carriages, servants, courtiers, ladies-in-waiting and even an attendant Government minister – making the move.  Balmoral may have been popular with the royal couple but for many courtiers and Government ministers it represented a considerable inconvenience.  Consulting the monarch was difficult at a distance of 600 miles, especially when business had to be conducted face to face.  So, while the Queen and her husband looked forward to travelling to the Highlands of Aberdeenshire, many of those interacting with her were not similarly enthused.

Queen Victoria was immediately attracted to the Highlanders working as servants for her.  On 22 September 1848, she wrote in her Journal,“My little gillie told me that they all speak Gaelic amongst themselves, though not as good as in the west, from where McDonald comes.  I like talking to the people here, they are so simple & straight forward & I like their curious Highland English (it was actually the Doric).”  A level of informality with the servants, which would have been unthinkable elsewhere, was quickly established.  The Queen was also absorbed with the breath-taking scenery.  On 26 September Victoria had planned to climb (on a pony) Lochnagar, the highest mountain at 3,790 ft, on the Balmoral estates, but the day turned out very dull and the idea was abandoned.  Instead her entourage travelled through the estate at lower level towards Glen Muick in the east. She wrote in her Journal, “The road wound round the hills, & we had a beautiful view of Ben na Bhourd (Beinn a’ Bhuird, another of the high Cairngorms at 3,924 ft) & the surrounding high hills. Our little caravan passed along a very wild & solitary country. I walked a little way, & Albert almost the whole way to Loch Muick (a lake more than two miles long, covering an area of 540 acres) which is very fine & striking as one approaches it, being entirely enclosed in hills. We had to pass a ford, in going to the little bothie, surrounded by a little fir wood, where the Keeper lives; we walked a little further, & then took our cold luncheon in one of rooms in the bothie, after which we walked on a mile in the direction of the lake, to have a look at it, & I made a sketch.”
 
Loch Muick

One day later Victoria expressed her feelings for her new Highland home clearly, “It is such a lovely wild & haunting country, that I cannot bear the thought of leaving”.


Allt na Giubhsaich

Although she did not name it as such in the 26 September 1848 journal entry, the “little bothie” was Allt na Giubhsaich, which means “Burn of the fir wood”.  The cottage was built by the Gordons and originally it appears to have been a shooting box, or a cottage for a gamekeeper.  It would become a favourite location for the Queen and her Consort and a place of great significance for the monarch, reminding her always of a simple life and happy times spent there with her beloved Albert, normally without their children, who were usually left behind at the castle to sleep, though occasionally they joined their parents, typically during the day.  In August 1860, Princess Alice slept there – in the dining room.  However, separately from the Queen and her consort, other members of the Royal family did occasionally use the property.  In September 1852, the Queen wrote, “The Boys who went yesterday to Allt na Giubhsaich & slept there, returned this evening.”
Allt na Guibhsaich

On their return to Balmoral in late summer,1849, the royal party arrived at Allt na Giubhsaich in the early afternoon of 30 August, with the intention of staying overnight.  Since their first visit the previous year, they had arranged for the property to be expanded and for the road from Balmoral Castle to be improved.  The Queen was impressed by the changes.  We arrived at our little Hut at 2, & were amazed at the transformation; 2 huts in wood, have been added to the one we live in. We have got a charming little dining room, sitting room bedroom & dressing room for Albert, all en suite, & there is a little room where Caroline sleeps, one for her maid, & one little pantry. In the other hut, only a few yards distant, is the kitchen, a small room for the servant's meals, & a loft above in which the Men sleep. We have only a very few servants with us. Our rooms are very nicely furnished & papered.”
After lunch on the same day, the party took the 20-minute walk to the shore of Loch Muick.  “Here we found the fine large new boat, into which we got, Mc Donald, Duncan, Grant & Cotes (Coutts), rowing, old John Gordon & 2 others going in another boat, with the net. We rowed up to the head of the lake, about 3 miles, where the Muick runs down out of the Dhu Loch, which is on the other side. The scenery is beautiful, so wild & grand, — real severe Highland scenery with trees in the hollow. We had serious scrambles, in & out of the boat & along the shore. Saw 3 hawks & caught 70 trout. I wish an artist could have been there to sketch the scene, it was so picturesque: the boat, the net, & all the men in their kilts, standing in the water & on the shore. Going back, Albert rowed & Mc Donald steered. The lights were beautiful.”  Fishing for trout in Loch Muick and, more importantly, eating the catch, would become a favourite pastime for royal parties over the years.

The following day, Her Majesty’s delight at the setting was confirmed.  “It seemed like a dream on waking up, to find ourselves here, — but a very pleasant one”.  And, “This, is our dear little dwelling in the hills. The surrounding little wood of fir trees has such a pretty effect. There is such simplicity & real wildness in it all. The washing & cooking, & everything going on in a line with one's own dwelling, — the people sitting in the kitchen, all gives such an air of rustic simplicity, which has a great charm.”

The remote location and basic specification of Allt na Giubhsaich did not permit of much sophistication by way of evening entertainment, but the Queen was unconcerned, even delighted to be leading a simpler life.  Got back at ¼ p. 7, & at 8 we dined, & quite a nice little dinner. Afterwards we played Whist, with Caroline, Whist, with a dummy. Then we walked round the little garden, & the silence & solitude, only interrupted by the moving of the fir trees. — was very solemn & striking. We retired early to rest & felt so peaceable & happy in this little cottage, far away from all human habitations. —.”  By the following year, 1850, a “little piano” had been acquired for Allt na Giubhsaich and singing and playing together could then also be undertaken for evening entertainment.

In 1850, the monarch gave voice to her thoughts on the servants attending at Allt na Giubhsaich.  All the Highlanders are so free from anything like bluster, so straightforward, — no flattery, so simple, & honest. They are never vulgar, never take liberties, are so intelligent, modest & well bred.”  Two servants had particularly caught her eye.  “I also like the other gillie, John Brown, very much, a good-looking, tall lad of 23, with fair curly hair, so very good humoured & willing, — always ready to do whatever is asked, & always with a smile on his face. — Grant (the head stalker) is an excellent simple, plain spoken man & I have a very high opinion of him. He is so much attached to those he serves.” 

Between 1849 and 1861, inclusive, the royal couple visited Allt na Giubhsaich on average between three and four days per year and slept there overnight, typically on one or two nights each holiday. 
  

Original Glas-allt-Shiel

Allt na Guibhsaich, “the little hut”, was not the only bothie, or shieling, in the wilds of the Balmoral estates which the Queen and her husband found attractive.  Close to the far, ie western, end of Loch Muick was another pre-existing dwelling, possibly a shooting lodge, located on land belonging to the Abergeldie estate.  It was called Glas-allt-Shiel (Cottage of the green burn).  Between1851 and 1861, inclusive, the Queen visited Glas-allt-Shiel on 25 separate occasions, rather more than twice each autumn, on average, sometimes after visiting, or staying at, Allt na Giubhsaich, but sometimes travelling there directly. Because of the limited accommodation inside Glas-allt-Shiel the royal party would often take lunch on the grass in front of the cottage, overlooking the Loch.  On occasions the Highland midges, prevalent in this location, drove them indoors. Anyone who has visited the Scottish Highlands in summer will know that the midges are a perpetual nuisance.  For the newcomer it is difficult to comprehend how something so small can be so irritating.  And they literally exist in clouds.  Queen Victoria soon became familiar with the midge and on many occasions, especially near Loch Muick, her arrangements were disrupted by this diminutive native.

Between 1850 and 1851 further changes were made to the two cottages near Loch Muick.  At Allt na Giubhsaich her retainer, “Old John Gordon”, who had been acting as caretaker, was removed as he “had become so useless”.  He was replaced by McKenzie, his wife and young family.  Mrs McKenzie was described by Queen Victoria as “a tidy little body” with “nice” children.  At Glas-allt-Shiel “a charming little lodge” had been built and Duncan, now employed as a Balmoral keeper, installed.  He was married and would soon have a young family.  In 1856 Queen Victoria, who was often fascinated by the children of her servants, sketched the older child of the Duncans.  Additionally, there was accommodation set aside for the royal owners at Glas-allt-Shiel, “there is a little room for us. It is nearly finished.”  However, the Queen and Prince Albert never used this iteration of the Glas-allt-Shiel for overnight accommodation, though their eldest son, Prince Albert Edward, “Bertie”, slept there in September 1859. 

Prince Albert charmed his wife by describing her as the “Lady of the Lake”, a reference taken from the poem of that title by Sir Walter Scott and first published in 1810, and Glas-allt-Shiel as a suitable place for the “lady” to dwell.
Loch Muick and Lochnagar


The Genechal cottage 
The Queen and Prince Alfred first entered on the Balmoral estate in September 1848.  The same year they secured a lease to the adjacent Abergeldie estate which was immediately made over to their eldest son, Prince Albert Edward, Prince of Wales.  One place visited by the monarch in 1848 was the Genechal an area up Glen Girnoc to the east of Balmoral Castle, where she made a sketch of the view.  At the time of the Queen’s accession to the property there were already two cottages at the site, one of which was occupied by John Morgan, a tailor and his large family.  At some time, the royal couple decided to build a cottage here, roughly equidistant from both Balmoral and Abergeldie castles.  This location has at least three alternative spellings (Genechal, Glenachill, Geannachoil) but is actually a corruption of Seanchoille – the old wood).  The new, single-storey, royal cottage was of an unusual design, being in two mirror-image halves with a dividing wall down the middle and two separate, adjacent front doors.  One half of the building was for the use of the Queen and the remainder was occupied by John Morgan and his wife, who undertook duties as housekeepers of the Queen’s quarters.



Little is known about when the cottage was built or of the Queen’s use of it.  The area is only mentioned once by name in the monarch’s journals, on 3 September 1849, when Prince Albert went there to shoot roe deer.  Some writers have perceived significance in the separate entrances for monarch and housekeeper, but that appears to be a bit fanciful.  Housekeepers were generally employed to maintain similar properties out in the wilds of the Deeside estates and it seems entirely normal that the Queen would insist on maintaining her personal privacy when in residence.


Loch Muick weather

Queen Victoria frequently commented on the autumn weather at Loch Muick, which was always changeable and could be extreme.  In 1851, September weather included, “The evening was beautiful, quite a summer's evening, & not a breath of air. Never do I remember such weather in the Highlands.”  But also, “Such a morning of torrential rain & very high wind, after storming all night.”  And, “the mist hung very thickly over the hills”.  But the Queen did not care and stormy weather, with her safely tucked up in her “little hut”, became part of the area’s wild charm.  In October 1852 she reported on dramatic conditions on the loch.  “The wind was so violent that it blew the water of the lake up like columns of smoke.”  Three years later, in September 1855, the weather was again oppressive, “The day intensely & overpoweringly hot; though most beautiful”.


Road improvements reduce the isolation at Loch Muick

By 1852, the road along the north west shore of Loch Muick had been widened and improved so that it could now take a carriage.  Other paths up nearby glens and along burns had also been made safer, so that pony and foot expeditions into the hills became the regular fare of the autumn visits to Glen Muick.  But improved roads and paths also brought better communication with Balmoral Castle and messengers were frequently on the move, keeping the monarch in touch with national affairs.  In September 1852 the Queen and her party had travelled to the remote Dhu Loch, which feeds Loch Muick, but even here she was not out of communication and off duty.  “McKenzie returned … bringing letters, amongst which was one from Ld Derby, which I tore open. Alas! it contained the confirmation of the fatal news, that Britain's pride, her glory, her hero, one of the greatest men she ever produced, was no more! What a great & irreparable loss!”  It was the announcement of the death of the Duke of Wellington, the hero in the defeat of Napoleon Bonaparte. Wellington’s demise would require elaborate and speedy arrangements for a state funeral.  We hastened home on foot, to the head of the Loch, & then rode back to Allt na Giubhsaich in a very heavy shower. Our whole enjoyment spoilt. A gloom cast over everything!”

News of other major events which reached royal eyes while staying at Allt na Giubhsaich included the storming of the heights of Alma during the Crimean War in October 1854 and the “awful details” of the massacre at Cawnpore during the Indian Mutiny in 1857, when “88 officers, 70 ladies & children, 120 women & children, & 400 residents perished!”


Prince Albert and deer stalking

Prince Albert was often absent during the day, when the royal couple were lodging at Allt na Giubhsaich, pursuing red deer across the hills with John Grant, the head stalker, or traversing the woods for roe deer.  Sometimes the Royal Consort returned empty-handed, wet, bedraggled and tired, but at other times, triumphant.  In October 1852, “Albert went out at 7 after a fine stag that had been seen”.  Despite appalling weather, the Prince was successful, “Though the cold & wind had been dreadful, Albert had had such a run after the stag, which he shot near Craig na Gael that he had never been so hot. There was thick ice on the tops of the hills, which had borne his weight!”  Victoria returned separately to Balmoral “& met Albert's truly beautiful stag being brought back. Its horns are magnificent, measuring 28 inches in length & width. It was so old that it had no teeth left.”
Dead Stags at Balmoral

Autumn is the rutting season for the red deer and Victoria often remarked in her Journal on the noise generated.  While staying at Allt na Giubhsaich in October 1852 she wrote, “The wind howled & the stags could be heard roaring, but our little "housie" was very snug.  And, in October two years later, “Our little dinner like yesterday, & after it, whilst we were playing Whist, we heard the stags roar, which had such a wild effect.”  (In the Doric, the version of English spoken in Aberdeenshire and adjacent counties, any noun can have “ie” added to its end.  Victoria had clearly picked up this device from her local servants.)  Queen Victoria usually had one or more ladies as companions with her at “the hut”, which helped to pass the time in the absence of Albert pursuing stags.  Jane Churchill (Jane Spencer, Baroness Churchill 1826 – 1900, appointed Lady of the Bedchamber in 1854) was a particular favourite, the Queen describing her as “such an amiable companion, so sensible, & gentle & with much conversation”.

On 18 October 1861, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, he already suffering from chronic stomach pains, made what would become their last joint visit to their favourite locations close to Loch Muick.  They set out for the Glassalt burn, pausing briefly at Allt na Giubhsaich and climbed up a steep path, where they stopped for lunch.  The party later descended to the Glass-allt-Shiel and were joined by Albert, who had earlier gone off stalking and had been successful in securing a stag.  At the Shiel they took tea together before driving back to Balmoral by brilliant moonlight.


John Brown

John Brown was born in 1826, the second son of a tenant farmer, also named John, at Crathienaird, part of the Invercauld estate.  This clachan (hamlet) consisting of a few “but and ben” houses, lay half a mile from Balmoral Castle north of the Dee.  John Brown senior and his wife Margaret had a family of eleven, all but two being boys.  Several of them would see royal service, the most prominent being John junior.  At an early age he moved with his parents and family to another farm, the Bush, at Crathie, which was even closer to the Castle.  After leaving the village school aged 14 in 1840, John Brown found a job at the Pannanich Wells coaching inn south of the river and about three miles east of Ballater.  His next position was in the stables of the Balmoral estate and in 1849 he was engaged there as a ghillie.  This Gaelic word can have either of two distinct meanings, firstly as a male attendant on a Highland chief and secondly as a fishing and hunting guide.  John Brown was initially a groom and progressively graduated to personal attendant on the Queen, but he was never a hunting or fishing guide.
John Brown with his dogs

The Princess Beatrice edited version of Queen Victoria’s Journal first noted John Brown’s presence on 26 September 1849, when he and other servants accompanied Victoria and Albert on a jaunt to the Ballochbuie forest west of Balmoral.  The next mention of John Brown, on 16 September 1850, described him as “J. Brown, a nice, active lad”.  Further favourable comments followed.  By 1851 Brown had been promoted to leading the Queen’s pony but after that year he received no further mention in the Journal until 1858, though references to him from this time interval do exist in “Leaves”.   Princess Beatrice’s editorial pen had undoubtedly been at work.

As early as 1856, Queen Victoria chose to visit the Brown family farm, the Bush, getting off her pony and entering the kitchen where Mrs Margaret Brown, John’s mother was spinning wool.  The Queen would later take up spinning herself as a hobby.  Her Majesty was offered and accepted oatcakes and cheese, which she pronounced “very good”.  This was a marked honour for the parents of a relatively junior servant, though he was clearly both liked and trusted by the monarch and in 1858 John Brown was appointed Queen Victoria’s regular attendant out of doors everywhere in the Highlands.  Brown was now expected to walk beside the Queen on steep mountain tracks to keep her safe.  She wrote on 24 September 1858, while staying at Allt na Giubhsaich, “… Ross & Brown, who were with us, besides gillies, took our arms firmly & helped us down, for I felt quite giddy on the very narrow path, with the precipice on one side.”  On 18 October of the same year John Brown, with Duncan, was entrusted with carrying Victoria on a plaid slung between the men’s shoulders, to avoid Her Majesty getting her feet wet in some long grass.  Also, in October, the monarch wrote to her daughter, Princess Victoria, praising Brown.  “Brown has had everything to do for me, indeed had charge of me and all, on all those expeditions, and therefore I settled that he should be specially appointed to attend on me (without any title) and having a full dress suit.”  John Brown continued to impress the monarch in the autumn of 1859.  “From here we rode, Brown (whose care in leading the pony & watching every step I take, is admirable) led my pony along the Loch, at a tremendous pace.”  (27 September). 
In the interval October 1859 – October1861, John Brown accompanied the royal couple on a series of increasingly challenging journeys away from Balmoral and culminating in four “Great Expeditions” through the Highlands, travelling, incognito for significant distances from Balmoral and sometimes staying in country inns. These journeys are detailed by Victoria in “Leaves” and contain many references to Brown’s dutiful attention.  During an expedition along Glen Derry to Ben Macdui in October 1859, the Queen had an interesting conversation with John Brown, which she reproduced, with her observations, in “Leaves”.  Albert talking so gaily with Grant. Upon which Brown observed to me in simple Highland phrase, “It’s very pleasant to walk with a “person who is always ‘content.’” Yesterday, in speaking of dearest Albert’s sport, when I observed he never was cross after bad luck, Brown said, “Every one on the estate says there never was so kind a master; I am sure our only wish is to give satisfaction.” I said, "they certainly did."  “(We were always in the habit of conversing with the Highlanders—with whom one comes so much in contact in the Highlands. The Prince highly appreciated the good-breeding, simplicity, and intelligence, which make it so pleasant and even instructive to talk to them.)”

John Brown continued in his role as the Queen’s protector in the hills in 1860.  At the end of August during a stay at Allt na Giubhsaich, Prince Albert went off stalking for the day while the Queen with two of her daughters, Princess Alice and Princess Beatrice, all riding ponies, set off for a jaunt along the western shore of Loch Muick.  They paused at Glas-allt-Shiel to take lunch and to spend some time sketching before moving on to the Dhu Loch.  The next leg of the journey was quite adventurous.  They climbed up the side of the North Dhu Loch Craig.  Queen Victoria described the scene.  “There was no path, deep heather & large stones. Brown pulled me up & helped me down, which was much worse than going up. Alice & Beatrice B. had no one help them & had several falls. The view from the top very fine, into Glen Mark. We had scarcely got on our ponies again, when there was a violent hailstorm, but it did not last long, though it made us all very wet.”  The following day Queen Victoria and her party took another wild foray across Lochnagar, down to Loch Callater and Glen Callater, then on to Braemar on the way home to Balmoral.  In a paeon of praise for her supportive servants, Victoria decorated John Brown with, “… Brown, who is so thoughtful & full of initiative, making an admirable guide & servant …”. 

In September 1861, a royal party attended by John Brown took a circular route through Glen Mark to the village of Fettercairn, staying, incognito, overnight at the Temperance Hotel, Fettercairn, where Grant and Brown waited at table.  They returned along Glentaner to Deeside.  The Queen also recorded that, “Brown acted as my servant, brushing my skirt and boots, and taking any message, and Grant as Albert’s valet.”  After the final “Great Expedition” along Glen Tilt to Blair Athole in October 1861, Queen Victoria wrote to King Leopold of the Belgians.  “We have had a most beautiful week which we have thoroughly enjoyed – I going out every day about twelve or half past taking luncheon with us carried on the back of a Highlander and served by an invaluable Highland servant (John Brown, of course) I have who is my factotum here and takes the most wonderful care of me combining the offices of groom, footman, page and maid I might almost say as he is so handy about cloakes and shawls etc.  He always leads my pony and always attends me out of doors and such a good handy faithful attached servant I have nowhere; it is quite a sorrow for me to leave him behind.”

Thus, over the decade before the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria came increasingly to depend upon John Brown for many servant roles.  The two - rough Highlander with only a basic education and monarch of the most powerful nation on earth - had become increasingly familiar with each other.  At this time Brown still “knew his place”, but a great change was about to come in both their lives.


The death of Prince Albert

Prince Albert started to feel unwell with stomach cramps in August 1859.  Over the next two years, his condition deteriorated and by late November 1861 he was sleeping badly, but frequently needed to rest and he was suffering from neuralgic pain.  The symptoms got progressively worse.  He felt weak, was confined indoors and had a poor appetite, accompanied by shivering.  Sir John Clark and Dr Jenner (Royal Physicians to Queen Victoria) saw him frequently but could offer little help.  Victoria tried to comfort her husband, but his condition continued to decline.  He started to become incoherent and at times his mind wandered, and his hands shook.  By 13 December his medical attendants were sounding very gloomy.  Prince Albert died the following day in the Blue Room at Windsor Castle.  His devoted wife and five of his nine children were present at his end.  The diagnosis given at the time was typhoid fever but that is now generally discounted.  The cause of death remains unknown. 

Queen Victoria was devastated.  She was already in a fragile state due to the demise of her mother, the Duchess of Kent in March 1861 and now she had lost her husband and the father of her children, to whom she was devoted.  But she had also lost a valued advisor on matters of state and many aspects of their personal affairs.  Following Albert’s death Victoria made no further contribution to her Journal for 1861 and entered a deep state of mourning, continuing to wear black for the rest of her days.  Albert’s rooms were maintained as shrines, configured exactly as they had been during his life and the monarch regularly visited them, as she moved around the country, attempting to assuage her grief.


Visits to Balmoral resumed – mourning Albert

In 1862, six months after the demise of her beloved Albert, Queen Victoria departed for Balmoral.  Her arrival was kept low key, only Dr Robertson greeting her at the door of the Castle.  She wrote in her dairy, “Went upstairs & entered my rooms, looking out of the window, then went into Albert's dear rooms where everything brought all back before my eyes, all the years of happiness, now gone for ever!  The Queen stayed at Balmoral for the whole of May, a departure from the pattern which had previously been followed.  She returned to Aberdeenshire in July of the same year and spent another 32 days at her Scottish home, where she could hide from the world and grieve for her lost love.  Queen Victoria was a creature of habit and the pattern of two visits to Balmoral, one in late spring and one in late summer into autumn, was immediately established and, indeed, maintained religiously for the remaining 38 years of her reign and her life.  On average the late spring break lasted for just over 29 days (range 20 days – 42 days).

The late summer/ early autumn break had extended to an average of 41 days during Albert’s life (excluding 1848, the atypical first year).  After Albert’s death that period almost doubled to a mean of 79 days (range 62 days – 137 days).  Moreover, unlike the length of the late spring holiday, where no obvious evolution through time was observed, the late summer – autumn break showed a clear trend over the years.  Not only did the average holiday length between the periods before 1861 and after that date approximately double, but within the post-1861 data, the middle years (about 1862 to 1891) had breaks which were consistently the longest.  The highest value was in 1873, being 105 days.  That year also had the greatest value for the total length of stay at Balmoral, at 137 days.  In 1873, Queen Victoria spent 37.5% of her time at her Scottish home. 

In summary, after Prince Albert’s death, Queen Victoria spent two holidays each year at Balmoral, rather than one.   A new, late spring holiday of about 29 days, which did not noticeable increase or decrease in the following years was added a second holiday in late summer - autumn.  This second holiday continued the pattern established during Prince Albert’s life but after his death more than doubled in length, being particularly long in the 1870s and 1880s.  There was another precipitate change in Balmoral holiday arrangements during the Queen’s widowhood.  She never again stayed overnight at Allt na Giubhsaich.  However, she did not avoid the property during the daytime.  Indeed, the frequency of daytime visits actually increased from 3.5 days/holiday to 6.25/holiday, though this change could largely be accounted for by the increased holiday length.  Perhaps the “hut” evoked too many memories of happy days – and nights – spent together.

In the period from 1862, the first year after Albert’s death, to 1867, the year before the building of the new Glas-allt-Shiel (see below), Queen Victoria was a lost soul, mourning the departure of her beloved Albert, displaying her grief in a public way and seeking solace in the wilds of the Scottish Highlands.  The entries in her Journals are poignant and revealing of the state of her mind.  On 4 May 1862, three days after arriving on Deeside the monarch took a drive towards Allt na Giubhsaich.  At the end of the day she wrote, “… all felt the gloom cast over all by our dreadful loss.”  And,Looked over my beloved one's things with Lachlein (Prince Albert’s valet), — heart breaking. — Then read with Alice some prayers & the 14th chapter of St. John & 15th chapter of the Corinthians which are so comforting.” A final sentence expressed her sense of loss of purpose, “I seem to have lost all interest in everything here.”

The Queen’s first actual visit to Allt na Giubhsaich without Albert was on 18 August 1862 and she managed to gain some peace of mind from her presence at the “hut” in its remote and beautiful surroundings.  The wild solitude of the scenery & the extreme quiet of the dear little house where everything is as we left it, speaking of happy days in the past, soothed me much. We walked in the little garden & had some tea. Felt so thankful to have been there, though all is like a pilgrimage.”  Three days later Her Majesty made another sacred visit, this time to the top of a hill, Craig Lorigan, on the Balmoral estate, where she had commanded a giant, loose-laid granite cairn, 40 ft wide and 35ft high, should be built as a memorial to Albert.  Its base contained individual stones bearing the initials of Victoria and her nine, now orphaned, children. Part of the inscription read as follows.
 
TO THE BELOVED MEMORY OF
ALBERT, THE GREAT AND GOOD PRINCE CONSORT
RAISED BY HIS BROKEN-HEARTED WIDOW
VICTORIA R
AUGUST 21, 1862

The following year, 1863, five visits were paid by the Queen to Allt na Giubhsaich.  Since the death of her husband she had suffered from fits of depression and found it difficult to walk, giving a constant air of dependency to those around her.  Memories of Albert still overwhelmed the monarch.  Her writings after the trip to the “hut” on 17 October illustrated these tendencies.  We had to ride over very rough, & in parts, soft ground, but I cannot walk, so I must ride everywhere, & over everything. Went up to within a few yards of where a stone has been placed to mark the spot, where my beloved one shot his last stag on the 18th of Oct!  With the help of Grant, I walked up to it & placed a small stone on it, Vicky & Fritz, & the others having already placed theirs. Everything is now so pathetically sad for me & such recollections of the past crowd in on me. Everywhere there seems to be some kind of pilgrimage!”  Three days later, after visiting Allt na Giubhsaich again, she wrote, “I looked sadly at our dear little rooms, where we had been so happy …”


Queen Victoria’s depression - John Brown to the rescue

During visits to Balmoral in the immediate aftermath of Prince Albert’s death, references to John Brown in the Princess Beatrice version of the Queen’s Journals were brief, but they do give some indication of the monarch’s attitude to her great supporter and the other ghillies, while she was in her state of widowhood.  28 May 1862, “Out in the pony chair, Alice riding on "Brechin". Grant Brown go with me with the little carriage. I like having the 2 good honest souls near me, who were so constantly with Albert”, was a typical contribution.  In October 1863, while returning to Balmoral from Allt na Giubhsaich in the dark, Smith, who was in charge of the coach, managed to drive off the road, turning the vehicle over, in spite of John Brown walking ahead to show him the way.  The Queen damaged her thumb and received a nasty abrasion to her head.  Princesses Alice and Helena were thrown to the ground, tearing their clothes but were not otherwise hurt.  Brown immediately took command of the situation, cutting the traces to release the panicking horses and subsequently leading the riding ponies of the monarch and Princess Alice on the way back to Balmoral.  This must have confirmed Queen Victoria’s view that Brown’s character showed he could be relied upon in all circumstances.  In her depressed and self-pitying state, Queen Victoria’s reliance upon John Brown became dominant.

In 1864, Sir William Jenner, concerned at the monarch’s poor mental condition, suggested that John Brown should be brought down south from Balmoral to Osborne to take charge of her daily forays, in the hope that he would raise her morale.  Brown was despatched south in December.  The tactic enjoyed some success and in February of the following year she made his position permanent, giving him the title of “The Queen’s Highland Servant”.  Queen Victoria wrote in her Journals in early February, “Have decided that Brown should remain permanently & make himself useful in other ways, besides leading my pony, as he is so very dependable.”  On the publication of “Leaves” in 1868, she was even more fulsome in her assessment of John Brown.  His attention, care, and faithfulness cannot be exceeded; and the state of my health, which of late years has been sorely tried and weakened, renders such qualifications most valuable, and indeed, most needful in a constant attendant upon all occasions.”  And, “He has all the independence and elevated feelings peculiar to the Highland race, and is singularly straightforward, simple-minded, kind-hearted, and disinterested; always ready to oblige; and of a discretion rarely to be met with.”

But this developing closeness between monarch and servant now led to rumour and tittle-tattle and in the Royal household the Queen attracted the sobriquet of “Mrs Brown” behind her back.  Even her daughters joined in the gossip, referring to Brown as “Mama’s lover”.  Volumes have, of course, been written speculating on the degree of personal intimacy that existed between the two.  It is not the purpose of the present work to review all the evidence which bears upon this relationship, as there is a plethora of publications on the subject.  Rather, the task is to examine new evidence, derived from the monarch’s use of her wild abodes on the Balmoral estates, as the data impinge on this and other matters for debate concerning Victoria’s life. 


Glen Gelder Shiel
Queen Victoria took the decision to build a replacement shiel in a new location, free from the constant reminders of happy days spent at Allt na Giubhsaich, which were never to return.  The location chosen was Glen Gelder, which holds the Gelder burn.  It runs in a northerly direction from the slopes of Lochnagar past the western side of Balmoral Castle, before joining the Dee.  It was a glen where Prince Albert had frequently gone stalking, often in the early days, with his wife in tow and this seems to have been the reason for choosing this location.  In September 1863, the Queen recorded her thoughts regarding Glen Gelder in her journal.  “ … rode up Glen Gelder, to the top of Feithort, where a stone has been placed to mark the spot where dearest Albert slept in a hut one night in '56. Walked down, then riding, Brown leading my pony. The glorious wild hills, all seemed the same as in blessed old times, & somehow it seemed to bring me nearer to my beloved one”.  Later the same month, her nostalgia emerged again.  “Rode up Glen Gelder, along the lower path, the scene of so many of my beloved one's stalks. It was rather windy, but so fine. I rode dear "Brechin", his own pony, which is so precious to me, he having always ridden him.”  And again, the following month. “Rode along the lower Glen Gelder path & then crossed over to the upper, where we stopped to sketch. After that found a pretty little sheltered hollow, looking over towards the Cails & had our luncheon. I felt so sad without my beloved one, who always used to be so full of fun on these occasions.”

About this time, the monarch took the decision to build a new shiel in Glen Gelder.  On 20 October she met with Mr Beaton, the Balmoral Clerk of Works, in Glen Gelder to agree the site of the new shiel, which was at the top of the glen, a location which was wonderful for the distant views of the mountains but also with exposure to the wind and precipitation.  By September 1864 Glen Gelder Shiel was complete and ready for use, though the described it as a “very rough little shiel”.  It only took Queen Victoria a month and two visits to realise she had made a mistake with the location of the shiel.  The second occasion was on 3 October.  Victoria subsequently wrote the following words in her journal. “It was a very cold ride. Took tea there. Fear I shall have to remove it & plan it lower down, more in the shelter.”  It was spring of the following year, 1865, before the decision was formalised and a new site identified.  Dr Robertson, the Balmoral Commissioner, was tasked with getting the job done and by the time of the monarch’s return north at the end of the summer the new shiel was nearing completion  In 1867 the monarch ordered further improvements to access roads to be implemented by Dr Robertson.  The original Gelder Shiel was demolished sometime before 1868.

The first use of the cottage by the monarch was on 14 September when the Queen took tea there and described her new accommodation as “a very nice little house”.  Towards the end of October 1865, she met at Glen Gelder Shiel with Mr Beaton and took lunch, “chairs & a table having been put into the little room & a fire lit”.  Queen Victoria also gave a brief description of the accommodation.  “There is besides the dining room, a little sitting room & sort of dressing room, & a kitchen. Settled about the furnishing & that Balmoral plaid should be hung on the walls.”  It appears that Glen Gelder Shiel was never intended for overnight stays and no record has been found of the monarch ever sleeping there.  She decided to call the new cottage “Ruidh na Bhan Righ”, Gaelic for “the Queen’s shiel”, though the name was only occasionally used and she continued to refer to the property in her journal mostly as the Glen Gelder Shiel.

In the 37 years from 1864 to 1900, Queen Victoria visited the Glen Gelder Shiel almost every year (1872 and 1873 were exceptions), with an average frequency of 3.4 visits per year.  The most common reason for such a visit was to take tea, inside or outside, which she and her companions did on 77% of occasions.  Other reasons for a visit were to take lunch, to sketch, to catch (and eat) trout from the Gelder burn and generally to enjoy the views, the clear air and the solitude.  The Queen was always accompanied by members of her family, ladies in waiting and occasionally visitors, such as Eugenie, the former Empress of France.  She must also have been accompanied by a bevvy of servants, of various hues, but the Princess Beatrice edited version of Queen Victoria’s journals seldom mentions them.  Victoria’s last visit to the Glen Gelder Shiel was on 7 September 1900.  As the royal party returned past the estate quarry at Invergelder, where the stone had been sourced for the new Balmoral Castle, the Queen noted several “large fine blocks of granite”, which were being sent to Aberdeen to build the sarcophagus for her son, Prince Alfred, a heavy smoker and drinker who had died of throat cancer at the end of July 1900.  Time was running out too for the British Queen and Empress, who would not return to Balmoral after a 53 year unbroken run.
Glen Gelder Shiel


The new Glas-allt-Shiel

By early 1866 Queen Victoria was faced with a dilemma.  She loved the area around Loch Muick but she could no longer bear to stay overnight at Allt na Giubhsaich.  The Glen Gelder shiel was not designed to allow for sleeping accommodation and Glas-allt-Shiel, though on the shores of Loch Muick, was too small and basic for Her Majesty to stay overnight.  Dr Robertson was summoned in February 1866 for a discussion “… about the Sheil at the Glassalt, which is to be enlarged for me, so that I can go there sometimes …”.  A decision was taken to replace the existing shiel, next to the Glasallt burn, with a new structure, which the Queen referred to as a “cottage”, though it would be built of dressed granite blocks and have 15 rooms!  When she next visited Balmoral in June 1866, she drove to Allt na Giubhsaich with the Duchess of Atholl and Miss McGregor, where the ladies took tea before continuing to the Glassalt.  They were in the Greatest admiration of the wild spot where the little Shiel is to be built. Got off for a moment & looked over the plans with Dr Robertson, who met us there …” 
Glas-allt-Shiel about 1870

Construction of the new Glas-allt-Shiel was underweigh by mid-June 1867, the Queen noting on a visit to the site that, “the poor old house has vanished, & the hew foundations are already dug”.  On a further visit in early September of the same year, she observed that substantial progress had been made.  “The walls of the new house at the Glassalt are up & it promises to be very nice.”  Work on the new Glas-allt-Shiel was probably suspended over the following winter but when the monarch met with her Commissioner, Dr Robertson and Mr Beaton on site at the end of May 1868 she found that, “The house is all finished excepting the flooring & in some places the fittings &c. It will be very nice & the view from the windows quite beautiful.”  Despite the unfinished state of the building, she was able to make use of the new accommodation to escape the fierce wind which was blowing that day.  “… we took our tea in one of the rooms, with shutters put on rests, for our table & seats.”  By September 1868, the house was finished and the road along the shore of Loch Muick had been upgraded.  After taking tea in the new property, “We went all over the house, which is really charming, so comfortable & nicely & plainly furnished.”  There was some further tinkering on 28 September, “Went again over the house & gave some further directions about small alterations …”. The Glas-allt-Shiel was now complete and ready for use.  This new “cottage” was to change Victoria’s life dramatically.


Queen Victoria’s first overnight stay at Glas-allt-Shiel

Plans were made for a first overnight stay at the new Glas-allt-Shiel at the beginning of October 1868.  The servants, including John Brown, had persuaded the Queen that she should follow Highland tradition and hold a house-warming party, to which she agreed and which they organised.  Two versions of the events of that day survive, one from Queen Victoria’s selection, “More Leaves” and one from the Princess Beatrice edited copy of the Queen’s Journal.  They form an interesting comparison.  The two versions follow.

A comparison of the Beatrice and Victoria accounts of the Glass-allt-Shiel housewarming

Princess Beatrice version
“The anniversary of the day on which my beloved Albert’s life was somercifully spared at Coburg. – Fine, but cold. & there was a sprinkling of snow on the high hills.  Busy preparing for our departure for the new little Shiel. – Rode with Baby and Leopold. – Lenchen’s dear little boy is always brought to our breakfast & luncheon, & is a great darling, so forward & amusing. – Before 4 left with Louise & Jane C. for the Glassalt Shiel.  It was a beautiful evening, clear & frosty.  Drove by Birk Hall, taking tea at the Linn of Muick.  We had just finished when Arthur arrived from Ballater, having travelled straight from Geneva.  He looked rather tired, having besides had a rough crossing.  We walked a little way & then drove on, Arthur getting into the carriage with us.  Reached the Glassalt Shiel at 1/2p. 6.  It looked so cheerful & comfortable, all lit up & the little rooms are so cozy & nice.  The Dining room is on the one side of the little entrance hall, my sitting room, on the other & my bedroom &c – beyond.  In it stands the old bed & wardrobe in our former little bedroom at Alt no Guithasach.  Upstairs the rooms are equally comfortable.  Felt sad & lonely, thinking of the blessed happy past with dearest Albert, who always had wished to build here, in this favourite spot.  I could not have lived again at Alt na Guithasach now, alone, & it is far better to have built a totally new house, but the sad thought struck me, that it was the 1rst widow’s house, - not blessed by him. – Dined in the small Dining room, Brown & Ross serving & then went to my little sitting room, where we waited till we heard the servants were ready for the House Warming.  At 1/4p. 10 went into the Diningroom, where everything had been cleared & where all the servants were assembled.  Ross played, & some reels were danced.  Grant made a little speech, concluding with a wish that I should live long, calling me “our Royal Mistress, - our good Queen”.  This was followed by cheers given out by Ross with “Neesh neesh” At 1/4p. 11, all dispersed.” 

Queen Victoria version
“At nearly four o’clock left with Louise and Jane Churchill for the Glassalt Shiel.  It was a beautiful evening, clear and frosty.  We drove by Birkhall and the Linn of Muick, where we stopped to take tea; we had just finished when Arthur arrived from Ballater with Grant, who had gone to meet him there.  He had travelled straight from Geneva, and looked rather tired, having besides had a bad passage.  After walking a little we drove on, Arhtur getting into the carriage with us, and Grant going with Brown on the box.  We arrived at half-past six at the Glassalt Shiel, which looked so cheerful and comfortable, all lit up, and the rooms so cozy and nice.  There is a wonderful deal of room in the compact little house.  A good staircase (the only one) leads to the upper floor, where are the rooms for Louise, Jane Churchill, her maid, and Arthur, in one passage; out of this there is another, where are three rooms for Brown, the cook, and another servant; in one of these Grant and Ross slept, and C. Thomson in the other.  Below are my sitting-room and bed.  One of eight brothers (one died in 1865), three of whom, besides himself, are in my service – Andrew (the eldest), a livery porter; John, who has charge of the roads on my property at, and room, and my maids’ room; and on the other side of our little hall the dining room: then a nice kitchen, small steward’s room, store-closet, and another small room where two menservants slept.  The small passage near my bedroom shuts off the rest and makes it quite private and quiet.  Good stables, and the keeper’s cottage, where our gillies sleep, just outside at the back.  We dined at about half-past eight in the small dining room.  This over, after waiting for a little while in my sitting-room, Brown came to say all the servants were ready for the house-warming, and at twenty minutes to ten we went into the little dining-room, which had been cleared, and where all the servants were assembled, viz., my second dresser C Wilmore, Brown, Grant, Ross (who played), (Hollis (the cook), Lady Churchill’s maid, Maxted, C. and A. Thomson, Blake (the footman), the two housemaids, Kennedy, J. Stewart (the stableman), and the policeman (who only comes to do duty outside at night).  We made nineteen altogether.  Five animated reels were danced, in which all (but myself) joined.  After the first reel “whisky-toddy” was brought round for everyone, and Brown begged I would drink to the “fire-kinding”.  Then Grant made a little speech, with an allusion to the wold place we were in and concluding with a wish “that our Royal Mistress, our good Queen”, should “live long”.  This was followed by cheers given out by Ross in regular Highland style, and all drank my health.  The merry pretty little ballended at a quarter past eleven.  The men, however, went on singing in the steward’s room for some time, and all were very happy, but I heard nothing, as the little passage near my bedroom shuts everything off.”


Sad thoughts filled my heart both before dinner and when I was alone and retired to rest. I thought of the happy past and my darling husband, whom I fancied I must see, and who always wished to build here, in this favourite wild spot, quite in amidst the hills. At Allt na Giubhsaich I could not have lived again now—alone. It is far better to have built a totally new house; but then the sad thought struck me that it was the first Widow’s house, not built by him or hallowed by his memory. But I am sure his blessing does rest on it, and on those who live in it.”


Analysis

It is immediately obvious that the word count of the Beatrice version is much lower than the Victoria version, 376 vs 635 (about 40% less).  However, Beatrice’s editing was not confined to redaction of material, the changes are much more complex than that.  Words, phrases and sentences in each version have been classified as “Beatrice only”, “Common” or “Victoria only”.  Fifty seven percent of the Beatrice content is unique to that version and 61% of the Victoria script only occurs there.  The word count of the Common content in both versions is similar but not identical (240 words Beatrice vs 247 words Victoria).  The disagreement is due to material being adjudged to be “common” if it is broadly similar in the two versions, but not with exactly identical words or word counts, in each case.

The Beatrice unique material seems to be of three separate origins.  Firstly, an opening section dealing with events which occurred early on 1 October 1868, before the party left Balmoral, which did not relate to the visit to Glass-allt-Shiel.  This content may have been present in the original Journal entry but had been removed by Victoria as being irrelevant to the main thrust in her story.  Secondly, new but insignificant material originating from Beatrice’s own knowledge, such as the Highlanders’ cheer of Neesh! Neesh! and the layout of the new Shiel.  Thirdly, a possible attempt to bend the truth by advancing the start of the celebration by half an hour, perhaps to shorten its apparent duration.

The unique material in the Victoria version must have been eliminated by Beatrice in the editing process.  There are several clear themes.  In the Beatrice text, the names of only three servants are recorded, with four mentions in total.  Paradoxically, the reference to Brown and Ross serving at table in Beatrice’s copy was not in the Victoria version.  In that account, 12 servants were named, John Grant and John Brown attracting five mentions each.  In addition, there were extensive descriptions of servant accommodation and the total number at the party given as 19, which even including the policeman who was supposed to be on watch outside the property.  It seems that Beatrice was trying to downplay the role of the servants and conceal the large number of them both present and taking part in the celebration.

There seems little doubt that Beatrice was trying to cover up the raucous nature of the party and the fact that her mother was at least tolerant of its conduct, if not herself an active participant.  Victoria’s youngest daughter eliminated the fact that “Five animated” reels were danced and that her mother was the only non-participant in the dancing, that whisky toddy was being consumed by everyone, except perhaps the monarch though John Brown pressed drink upon her, that the location of the Glas-allt-Shiel was “wild” (ie remote) and the continued carousing by the men in the steward’s room after the dancing had been concluded.  This was not, by any stretch of the imagination a Baccanalian orgy but, without doubt, it was an alcohol-fuelled, Highland knees-up.  Also eliminated from the Beatrice version was the fact that her mother’s sleeping accommodation was private and could be shut off from the rest of the house and the fact that John Brown had his own room on the first floor, above the Queen’s bedroom.
   
Another significant difference exists between the two versions.  Beatrice had reordered the entry, in effect taken Victoria’s second (and last) paragraph and inserted it in the middle of her first paragraph.  This dealt with Victoria’s feelings of remorse for the loss of Albert.  But it was short, only 17.5% of the total word count (Victoria version) and, when placed at the end in the monarch’s text, looked like an afterthought.  On the other hand, when located in the middle of the shortened Beatrice version, it gained in prominence and emphasised Victoria’s saintly thoughts about her dead husband.  Reciprocally, the housewarming description in the Beatrice version was diminished by the severe pruning.

What was particularly curious about Beatrice’s editing tactics was the fact that Victoria’s version had already been published when the Queen’s youngest daughter picked up her pen to strike out the offending material.  Perhaps Beatrice had forgotten about “More Leaves” when she came to this section, possibly years after she had started on her monumental editorial task?  One overriding conclusion about the house-warming is that Queen Victoria seemed to be no more than a passive observer at a celebration being run by her senior outdoor servants, John Grant and John Brown, with her piper, Ross.  The Highlanders were totally in charge and the monarch seemed happy with her subservient role.  A further cautionary observation to make is that readers of the Beatrice version of the monarch’s Journals should keep clearly in mind that much material has been selectively eliminated in the editorial process.
John Grant


John Brown’s growing status 

In the mid-1860s, John Brown’s status and influence advanced inexorably.  Several Brown brothers were now also taking the Royal shilling and one, Archie, got into a row with Lieutenant Stirling, Prince Leopold’s governor.  Stirling had picked the wrong adversary.  Archie complained to his brother, John, about Stirling and John Brown interceded with the Queen.  Stirling was dismissed.  John Brown had lodged himself so firmly in the Queen’s high estimation that she took his side consistently and unthinkingly.  She had apparently become blind to his many faults, such as drinking to excess, being routinely brusque and rude to guests and courtiers alike and even bullying the Royal children.  In September 1868, Prince Leopold, a sickly 15-year-old haemophiliac, wrote to Lieutenant Stirling, “I am rather in the grumps just now about everything, the way in which I am treated is sometimes too bad (not Mr Duckworth (Prince Leopold’s tutor), of course not, he is only too kind to me) but other people.  Besides that “JB” is fearfully insolent to me so is his brother; hitting me on the face with spoons for fun, etc – you may laugh at me for all this but you know I am so sensitive I know you will feel for me  - their impudence increases daily towards everyone.”  But John Brown even held sway over the objections of Victoria’s children.  Why Victoria tolerated such behaviour in a servant was, and is, a conundrum.
Archie Brown


Activities at the Glas-allt-Shiel  

During the period before the death of Prince Albert, when the monarch enjoyed her sojourns at Allt-na-Giubhsaich, evenings were typically spent playing whist, singing together and playing the piano, though this musical instrument seemed to disappear after 1852.  At Glasallt Shiel from 1868, singing and piano-playing, especially by Princess Beatrice also featured strongly.  For example, in September 1874 at Glasallt Shiel, “A nice little dinner "à trois," after which Beatrice played to us on the piano, while I worked.”  However, Whist did not reappear at all. 
One of the Queen’s favourite pass-times during the day at Glasallt Shiel was watching the menservants fishing for trout with a net from a rowing boat.  The hauls were usually successful, fish in substantial numbers being recorded on several occasions.  During a day visit to the Glasallt Shiel in June 1869, “As soon as we got to the Shiel, we walked near to the head of the Loch, where Grant & the other Keepers & gillies were prepared with the net & boat. We all sat down on the heather. The 2 first hauls or "pulls," as they call them here, were unsuccessful, as the rope broke, but the other 3 were much more successful, upwards of 100 trout being taken. We walked back to the Shiel for tea, seated at quite a long table as we were a party of 9. We had some of the delicious fresh trout, broiled, which were very palatable.”   As the years passed by the monarch became more interested in eating the catch than in counting it. 


Frequency of visits to the new Glas-allt-Shiel 

It should not be surprising that, having caused the new shiel to be built at considerable cost, the Queen not only started to use the accommodation overnight but also visited more frequently during the day.  Between 1862, the year after Albert died and 1867, the year before the new shiel was available for occupation, daytime visits to Glas-allt-Shiel were made on 15 days (average 2.5/year).  After construction had been completed there was a substantial increase in the incidence of such calls.  Daytime visits rose immediately to about 13/year until 1882, after which the frequency dropped, like a stone, to about 4.2/year, a decline of 68%.  There was a similar, startling, cliff-edge drop present in the data for the frequency of overnight stays.  This precipitate decline also occurred between the same, adjacent years, 1882 and 1883.  From 1868 to 1882 inclusive, the average frequency of overnight stays was 6.4/year but, from 1883 to 1900 inclusive, the average was only 0.11/year, a fall of >98%.  What key event happened between Queen Victoria’s 1882 and 1883 visits to Balmoral, which might account for this dramatic decline?  The most significant event was the early demise of John Brown, who died at Windsor Castle on 27 March 1883. Indeed, after 1883 she only slept at the new shiel on two separate nights, one in 1889, six years after her Highland servant’s death and on one further occasion the following year.  These visits are considered below.


Queen Victoria’s reaction to the death of John Brown

Queen Victoria bestowed many marks of recognition and favour upon John Brown during his life, one of the most significant being the construction of a substantial house on the Balmoral estate, called Bhaile na Choile, for his use on his anticipated survival of the monarch’s death.

From the time of John Brown being summoned to Osborne from Balmoral in 1874 and his subsequent elevation to the position of “The Queen’s Highland Servant” early the following year, his lifestyle changed and with it his state of health.  He has always been a drinker, but his whisky consumption increased after leaving Balmoral.  While at the Royal Deeside estates, he spent most of his days in physical exertion, leading ponies and driving carriages, but that situation changed on his move south.  He became increasingly sedentary and his appearance deteriorated.  In the words of the Dundee Advertiser, he was leading a life of “ease and luxury”.  Subsequently, the Dundee Evening Telegraph noted that John Brown looked “older than his years”.  By 1877 he was suffering repeatedly from facial erysipelas, a Staphylococcal skin infection, and cellulitis in his legs, another bacterial epidermal disease which can penetrate to the deeper tissues and even migrate around the body.  In those pre-antibiotic days, both conditions were difficult to treat.  Brown died at Windsor Castle on 27 March 1883. Victoria was devastated.  Sir James Reid recorded, “The Queen is in a great state of grief about him”.  Her feelings of loss were not shared by most of her family and Court. John Brown had made many enemies in life and his slights, insults and boorish behaviour would not be quickly forgotten or easily forgiven. 

Two brief services were held in Windsor Castle before Brown’s body was taken to the railway station for its journey north.  As the coffin, covered in floral tributes from Queen Victoria, her family, Empress Eugenie (widow of Emperor Napoleon III of France) and others, left the castle, three of his brothers followed the hearse on foot. The funeral took place at Crathie on 5th April 1883.  John Brown’s coffin was transported to Scotland and lay in state at Bhaile na Choile during the night preceding his interment, which was to be next to his parents in Crathie churchyard.  This was the only occasion he was ever inside the house, which had become his through the monarch’s munificence.

The Queen did not attend the funeral, but she marked her grief publicly in several overt ways over the days and months following John Brown’s death.  She sent a plaid of Balmoral tartan to cover the coffin and her wreath bore the inscription, “A tribute of loving grateful and everlasting friendship and affection from his truest best and most faithful friend, Victoria”.
Victoria had cultivated a close relationship with John Brown’s relatives and she clearly considered them to be “family”.  Shortly before the funeral she had written to the wives of brothers Hugh and William in remarkably familiar terms, “Dear Lizzie and Jessie”.  She also asked “Mrs Hugh” to lay a wreath on her late brother-in-law’s bed on the day of the funeral.
In the following weeks and months, Victoria decided to memorialise her late Highland attendant.  She wrote a memoir of John Brown’s life which she planned to publish, much to the horror of those advising her and some deft manoeuvring was required avoid this outcome.  The draft was eventually destroyed surreptitiously.  She also commissioned artist Carl Rudolf Sohn to paint Brown’s portrait, life-size and JE Boehm was engaged to produce a life-size bronze sculpture of John Brown in full Highland dress.  It was subsequently installed next to the Garden Cottage at Balmoral, where the Queen often worked on her papers.
John Brown statue by Boehm

A grey granite memorial was caused to be placed over the grave of John Brown by Her Majesty.  It bore the inscription, “This stone is erected in affectionate and grateful remembrance of John Brown the devoted and faithful personal attendant and beloved friend of Queen Victoria in whose service he had been for 34 years. … That friend on whose fidelity you count, that friendship given you by circumstances over which you have control, was God’s own gift.  Well done good and faithful servant; thou hast been faithful over a few things I will make thee ruler over many things: enter thou into the joy of thy Lord”.  As the Aberdeen Evening Express pointed out, these words from the monarch were “such as a statesman, a warrior or a courtier might covet”.  Or someone with a close personal relationship.
John Brown's grave at Crathie

In death, as in life, Queen Victoria made clear that John Brown had held a very special position in her affections.



Abdul Karim, the Munshi
Abdul Karim was an Indian Muslim, born at Agra in 1863, who came to Britain in June 1887 as part of the celebration of the Queen’s Jubilee.  The Queen had decided to employ a group of Indian servants and Karim was one of the first two to arrive.  After all, she was the Empress of India!  Both were married but while Abdul was handsome, the other Indian, Mahomet Buksh, was rather plump.  While in the Queen’s service, all the Indians wore exotic uniforms, a situation analogous to the Queen’s vision in 1848 of how Highlanders should appear. The Indians proved to be adept at satisfying the Queen’s needs for service, especially at table and Abdul Karim was quickly singled out by Queen Victoria for special treatment.  He soon started to cook curries for Victoria, which delighted the monarch.  He also started to teach her Hindustani, satisfying her curiosity with Indian culture.  Very soon Karim’s status was elevated from that of table servant.  He now donned the mantle of Munshi, or teacher to the Queen.  Abdul Karim’s status at Court rose progressively under Queen Victoria’s promotion but his elevation caused alarm bells to ring for her senior advisers, who saw Karim gaining the influence that John Brown had acquired.  Their fears were to be realised.  Queen Victoria became so besotted with Karim that she could not, or would not, recognise his faults and any complaint about his behaviour was instantly, and often angrily, dismissed.

Abdul Karim was included in the retinue of servants which travelled to Balmoral with the monarch in late spring and late summer each year.  According to Sir James Reid, Physician to the Queen, Victoria had said she would never again sleep at the Glas-Allt-Shiel, one of her wild retreats on the shore of Loch Muick, after the death of John Brown in 1883, but she broke that resolution twice, on 17 – 18 October 1889 and again on 16 – 17 October 1890.  Commenting on the first occasion, Sir James also said, “However, she has changed her mind and has taken Abdul with her.”  This remark led Shrabani Basu, author of the book “Victoria and Abdul”, to conclude, “ … the Queen returned with satisfaction to her routine duties, enjoying the Highland break at Balmoral with Abdul.  The household watched in shock and horror as she breezily left with Karim for Glassalt Shiel a remote place three hours ride from Balmoral, accessed only by a narrow road running along the lake.”  This statement gives the impression, intended or not, that the pair spent time alone together at the Glas-Allt-Shiel.  But if that was the intention it was clearly untrue.  The Queen’s own journals (edited by Princess Beatrice) lists her companions in 1889, “Left Balmoral for the Glassalt with Beatrice Liko, & Emily A.”  Similarly, on the 1890 occasion when the monarch overnighted on the shore of Loch Muick, “then started for the Glassalt, with BeatriceEmily A. & Minnie C.”  Further, the monarch never went anywhere, especially overnight, without the support of a retinue of servants, though Princess Beatrice tended to eliminate them from her revise journal narrative.  By 1889 the Queen was 71 and it seems highly unlikely that she could have had an intimate relationship with "Abdul".  However, it remains a possibility that the Queen wanted to show off her wild retreat to her new Indian favourite and that this was the reason why she broke her own undertaking.


The Dantzig Shiel

The death of John Brown and the immediate alienation of the monarch from the Glasallt Shiel did not spell the end of Queen Victoria’s love affair with cottages in wild places on the Balmoral estates.  Five years before the demise of Brown, in 1878, Her Majesty had bought the Ballochbuie forest from the Farquharsons of Invercauld, in order to conserve this extensive ancient wood of Scots Pines.  Running through the Ballochbuie was the Garbh Allt (Rough burn) with its impressive falls.  It was one of Victoria’s favourite locations.
At the foot of the Ballochbuie, not far from the Dee was a spot called the Danzig or Dantzig. It is thought that the name originated with some mill owners in the locality who also had a business in the city of Dantzig on the coast of the Baltic Sea.  The latter spelling will be used here.  Queen Victoria first mentioned this location in her Journals in October 1854.  “… on the way home, however, I espied deer down in the Dantzig & Albert jumped out of the carriage & shot a very good stag …”. This was the site chosen by the Queen for her last wild cottage, to be called the Dantzig Shiel.  There was no pre-existing building at this location when it was acquired by the Queen, so this was to be a completely new construction. (At the beginning of WW2, the name of the Shiel was changed to the Garbh Allt Shiel, the name it sports today, because of sensitivity over it bearing a German name.) 
John Beaton was a stonemason to trade and had worked on the erection of the new Balmoral Castle.  He became Clerk of Works on the estate in 1855, retiring in 1882.  Beaton designed the new building.  Construction work was started in 1880.  A description of the “cottage” was reported in the Greenock Telegraph in August 1881,  The house is in the Swiss style with large verandahs and contains a couple of sitting rooms for the Queen, one for the suite and the necessary bedrooms, the kitchen and offices being in a separate building.  There are no carpets but only Indian matting which indeed the Queen uses in most of her private apartments.”  It was also reported in the press that the Dantzig Shiel was in part occupied by the Head Keeper.  These newspaper reports may have been an accurate statement of Royal intentions at the time, ie that the Queen’s accommodation would be quite extensive and include sleeping accommodation.  But that is not how the Dantzig Shiel was used, once completed.
The Dantzig Shiel

In 1879, John Grant, who had served the Queen in several capacities since 1854 and who was at this time in the post of Head Forester, was suffering from senile dementia and died.  John Michie, a professionally-trained forester, was appointed to fill the post vacated by John Grant and took up the role from August 1880.  The Dantzig Shiel was still under construction on 10 October 1880, as the Queen reported in her Journals.  “At 4, drove with Jane C. & Mary P. to the Garbhalt Bridge, where Dr Profeit (Queen’s Commissioner on Deeside, after Dr Robertson) & Michie, met me, to give directions, as to where trees are to be planted, (the storm of 28 December 1879, which caused the Tay Bridge disaster had also felled many trees in the Ballochbuie) & I then went on to the new cottage, which has got on wonderfully, & under roof. It will be charming & the position is beautiful.”
Location of Garbh Allt Shiel (Dantzig Shiel)

The final completion date for the Dantzig Shiel, which would have included decoration and furnishing, appears to have been in the middle of June 1882, though the Queen was taking tea there from the end of May of the same year.  In September1882, the monarch commented, “Drove with BeatriceLouischen (Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, Princess of Prussia) & Horatia S. & went to the Dantzig Shiel, to which the Gentlemen & other ladies had preceded us, as it was to be a sort of house-warming. Took our tea there, & my health was drunk. The cottage is quite charming, the passage & entrance, as well as my little room, is entirely panelled with fine wood from the Balloch Buidh, the furniture also in pine wood, & the curtains & chairs Balmoral plaid. There is a nice little dressing room & a waiting room besides. Michie, the wood forester, & his family live in another part of the house.” Helen Michie, John Michie’s wife, was contracted to maintain the monarch’s accommodation.
A tea party at the Dantzig Shiel would be enjoyed by the monarch so many times over the next 20 years that it became a ritual.
   
It is important to note that the decision to build the Dantzig Shiel was not related to the death of John Brown but was stimulated by the acquisition of the Ballochbuie forest.  This new Shiel was built and in use for about 10 months before Brown’s early demise.  When the Queen became alienated from Glasallt Shiel she effectively stopped sleeping out in all wild places at Balmoral.


Taking tea at the Dantzig Shiel

Between 1882 and 1900. The Queen visited Dantzig Shiel on 274 different days, averaging more than 14 visits/year, but with little variation in number, in another demonstration that she was very much a creature of habit.  On most occasions she took tea, occasionally lunch and rarely nothing at all.  Although the monarch’s visits to Glasallt Shiel halved in frequency after the death of John Brown, in the year of overlap, 1882, of John Brown’s life and the availability of the Dantzig Shiel, the Glasallt was visited on 12 days (typical of the Brown years) and the Dantzig on 14 days (typical of the post-Brown years).  It appears that, in building the Dantzig Shiel, the Queen was not attempting to create a cottage in the wild with the same purpose as Allt na Giubhsaich or the new Glasallt Shiel.

John Michie kept a dairy, possibly from 1880 and almost certainly from 1881 but the earliest known surviving volume is for 1884.  Queen Victoria took her tea on some occasions with the Michies when she visited the Dantzig Shiel, but on other occasions may have had tea prepared in her own accommodation at this cottage.  Perusal of the Michie diaries in conjunction with Queen Victoria’s Journal allows a comparison, on some occasions, of how the two diarists described the same event.  Of course, “diarist” in the case of Queen Victoria’s Journals means the Journals as edited by Princess Beatrice.  Despite the frequency of visits to the Michie household, Beatrice almost never mentions them by name and never when the Queen is going for lunch or tea.  “Took tea at the Dantzig” is a typical representation of her work. 
The relevant years for which the Michie diaries are available are 1884 – 1886 and 1890 – 1897.  In these years 163 visits are known to have been made to the Dantzig Shiel of which 81(49.7%) were noted in John Michie’s diaries as being to the Michie household.  It is likely that when Queen Victoria visited the Dantzig Shiel, about half the time she was visiting the Michies, not just her own accommodation. The purpose of the visit to the Michies was for tea on approximately 77% of occasions and for lunch on approximately 12% of occasions.  “Other” purposes included giving presents, seeing the Michie children and saying “Goodbye” to the Michie family at the end of a holiday.
These visits to the Dantzig Shiel by the monarch were not, of course, by invitation.  She simply announced that she was going and expected Helen Michie to respond, even at short notice.  On some occasions John Michie felt obliged to return early from his work on the estate to be present for a visit by the Queen.  Occasionally, he would arrive home to find the Queen unexpectedly present.  It is not revealed if “tea” with the Michies meant literally tea alone, or if it included cakes.  On visits to some other senior servants for “tea” the Queen commented favourably on the quality of the scones.
Gifts to the Michies included a copy of “Leaves from the Journal A Life in the Highlands" in 1884, a marriage medal to John Michie and dresses to his wife and children in the following year, a shawl each to Helen and Beatrice Michie in 1892 and in 1895 a portrait of the late Francie Clark, the cousin of John Brown.  The Queen did not come alone.  She brought ladies in waiting, daughters and their families and visiting dignitaries with her.  Some of these people took to visiting Dantzig Shiel at times when the monarch was not present and they received the same hospitality as Her Majesty, for example Sir Algernon Borthwick (1st Baron Glenesk, an MP and owner of the Morning Post) in October 1890.  Several reported interactions illustrate the warmth of feeling and informality between the Head Forester and his family and the monarch and her entourage.  In November 1895 the Queen brought King Dom Carlos (the First of Portugal) to visit and John Michie was introduced and shook his hand. Royal guests would even tease John Michie.  The Duke of Connaught (Queen Victoria’s third son), visiting in 1892, found Helen Michie sporting a black eye and he mischievously told her that he would chaff John concerning its origin, telling John he did not know he was violent.  "I disclaim any connection with it": replied Michie. "Of course you do", was the Duke’s jocular rejoinder, "I suppose in any case that would be the best course to take". 

John Michie held high opinions of several of his guests.  Princess Louise (Fourth daughter of Queen Victoria) was a particular favourite “Princess Louise I think a great deal of.  She looks you in the face steadily & pleasantly, converses freely & distinctly and her presence & general bearing is exceedingly likeable.”  And, “The Princess is exceedingly agreeable in manner, does a great deal and is most energetic in the doing of it.”  Further, “Her Majesty came to tea, accompanied by HRH the Princess Louise, who warmly shook hands.”  On 25 May 1891, the day after Queen Victoria’s birthday, John Michie recorded, “Yesterday being the 24th was Her Majesty the Queen's 72nd birthday.  In the evening she drove up to the Danzig Shiel, my house, and had tea there bringing along with her the Prince & Princess Henry of Battenberg, the Grand Duke of Hesse and his daughters, 2 of them (Victoria & Alice) the former being married to Prince Louis of Battenberg.  All were in good spirits the Queen looking very young for 72 years.”

The denouement
But life was drawing to a close for Queen Victoria.  Although she visited the Dantzig Shiel frequently in the period 1898 – 1900, the absence of John Michie’s diaries for those years obscured the last interactions between the monarch, her Head Forester and his family. Victoria’s final sojourn at Balmoral ended on 5 November 1900 and she died at Osborne House on 22 January 1901.  The monarch had spent 53 late summer holidays, without interruption, at Balmoral since 1848.  From 1862, she had also spent a late spring holiday, again without interruption, at her Scottish home in Aberdeenshire.  The Queen had been deeply attached to the country and the people and her enjoyment of Balmoral had been promoted by her construction or modification and enhancement of five separate dwellings located in wild and secluded surroundings. 

Queen Victoria, her wild abodes at Balmoral and the pivotal events in her life
An investigation of Queen Victoria’s motivations for building, or enhancing, her four main wild abodes on the Balmoral estates and her subsequent alienation from two of them, derived substantially from a quantitative analysis of her behaviour patterns, has provided instructive.  It opened a new window into her life at her Scottish retreat.  At Balmoral she was able to escape, at least temporarily, from the pressures of monarchy, by a retreat to wild places in the company of her loved ones, her supportive ladies and her devoted Highland servants.  She was able to pursue a simpler life in these small properties, rather than enduring the cavernous and sometimes cold spaces of castles, palaces and grand houses.  She often described her huts and cottages as “cozy”.  Informality also marked her interactions with her Highland employees from the lower orders, especially through casual conversations and physical contact, which would have been unthinkable in most royal settings.  
But looking into life at these wild abodes also brings an insight into her most personal and intimate relationships with members of the male gender.  Allt na Ghuibhsaich, located on a hillside near the outflow of the River Muick from the loch of the same name and not far distant from the Linn of Muick, a cascade which could be spectacular in times of high precipitation, provided an appealing natural setting in which to relax by becoming immersed in the natural features of the Highlands. But Allt na Ghuibhsaich, the first of her wild retreats, was unbreakably linked in her mind with Prince Albert and the pleasures of their life together at Balmoral between 1849 and 1861.  This is not just implied by a statistical association but was written on several occasions by the monarch herself.  Indeed, her memories of staying with Prince Albert at Allt na Ghuibhsaich were so poignant that she could no longer remain there overnight after his death and she said so.  Queen Victoria could not bear to be reminded directly of happy nights spent in that place.  The fact that she would still visit during the day after Albert’s passing shows that the crucial event was the recall of the sleepover. 
In order to continue enjoying the wild delights of the Balmoral lands, Queen Victoria needed an alternative venue, a new setting which was not redolent with memories of Albert.  She thought she had found that setting high in Glen Gelder, which lies some distance from Glen Muick, but her first attempt was at an exposed altitude and even when relocated to a lower level in the glen, it ended up only being used for daytime visits.

The Genechal cottage remains an enigma, curious in design, unsuitable for overnight use and possibly rarely used during the day.
The new Glas-allt-Shiel, in contrast, gave the Queen a new lease of life.  It had a wonderful setting on the shore of Loch Muick and, despite the monarch’s description of it as a cottage, it was a substantial house and possessed excellent accommodation, certainly sufficient for all that the Queen might desire of a retreat.  Between 1868 and 1882 she spent far more days and far more nights, proportionately, at Glasallt Shiel than she had even done at Allt na Ghuibhsaich.  She enjoyed travelling around the area local to the Glasallt, including over the watershed at the far end of Loch Muick and into the Angus glens.  Life again seemed to have meaning for her.  But when John Brown died after a life of over-indulgence, the Queen’s attitudes towards her then-favourite country “cottage” changed abruptly and dramatically.  She stopped making overnight visits to Glasallt Shiel (though she did seven years later make two separate, overnight stays, with Abdul Karim, probably innocuously amongst the bevvy of accompanying servants) and her daytime usage of the property fell immediately by 50%.  There was a remarkable parallel with the monarch’s pattern of behaviour concerning Allt na Ghuibhsaich when Prince Albert died.  Was the cause the same on this occasion, the loss of a lover?  These data certainly add support to the suggestion made by others that the relationship between Queen Victoria and John Brown involved close personal intimacy.  Of particular note in this regard is the information from Sir James Reid’s diaries.  He was the Royal Physician to Queen Victoria from 1881 until her death.  Bearing in mind the sleeping arrangements at Glasallt Shiel, discrete bedroom assignations were certainly possible there.  If they occurred, did they create memories which might be reawakened by visiting the place both during the day, but especially by staying there at night, subsequent to John Brown’s death?  Direct support for this hypothesis has not been found, but the strong circumstantial evidence presented here surely makes it an arguable proposition?
In contrast to Allt na Ghuibhsaich and the new Glas-allt-Shiel, the Dantzig Shiel was not a replacement for a former favourite retreat but rather an opportunity to create a new retreat in a different wild place, close to the Ballochbuie forest and the Garbh Allt falls.  It was used for day trips only and, being a relatively easy five-mile drive from the Castle could be utilised both for short visits and as a venue for lunch or tea when out on a jaunt to the west of Balmoral, for example to the Linn of Dee beyond Braemar.  In her declining years, the homely and pleasant family of Her Majesty’s Head Forester was always there at the Dantzig Shiel, both to maintain the property and to provide tea or lunch on demand.  Glen Gelder Shiel was employed similarly to the Dantzig Shiel but with a lower frequency.
The apparently causal link between John Brown and the Queen’s time-limited attachment to the new Glas-allt-Shiel raises other questions about the interpretation of her relationship with the Highlander.  For more than a decade, between 1849, when John Brown was engaged to work in the Balmoral stables, and 1861, when Prince Albert died, Brown was frequently the object of Queen Victoria’s compliments and his personality was portrayed at that time as being consistently pleasant.  He was a servant who tried to please, who was ever alert to royal need and who was polite in a Highland way.  That description is in marked contrast to the boorish, rude, obstructive, vindictive servant from the mid-1860s onwards, whose power base not even Victoria’s children could challenge effectively.  What had brought about this change?  After the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria, who was already significantly dependent upon John Brown’s support, suddenly became vulnerable and needy.  John Brown was on hand to service her needs and to bolster her confidence.  But if there had been a close personal relationship between monarch and servant, it is surely possible that it could have been initiated at this time, when the Queen was psychologically at a low ebb?  If so, that could have put John Brown in a position of dominant influence with the monarch which made him essentially untouchable by the Court and the Royal children alike.  This was also the time when the decision was taken to rebuild the Glas-allt-Shiel, not as a "cottage" but as a grand house.  Did a close relationship between monarch and servant influence the Queen’s decision to rebuild?  It’s an interesting thought.
Don Fox
20200331
20200510

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